Adjacent to The Moma, The Modern is probably the most underrated two Michelin stars restaurant in the City. I do not know why. Anyway, we were looking for a place to celebrate our anniversary when we saw that they offer a unique experience that any food enthusiast would appreciate: a table in the kitchen that gives you an inside look to what happens in the kitchen. I have been to Michelin star kitchens before, from Noma in Denmark to Maison Pic in France, without forgetting Eleven Madison Park, and have always been impressed by the calm and organization of the kitchen staff, only disturbed by tickets being called, followed by a “oui” Chef shouted in unison. It is simply mesmerizing and the kitchen at The Modern is no different: organized in three sections: dining room, pastry and bar room, the 30 or so staff there were working like a well oiled machine while 30 other people where preparing the next service (we went for lunch).
The $345 menu is a suprise: they ask you for any dietary restrictions and anything you do not like, but that’s it: Executive Chef Thomas Allan and his team will decide what to serve you with some classics like their eggs on eggs on eggs or their dry aged duck, each dish being like a piece of art carefully crafted. Here is what we had:
They started by bringing us an amaretto flavored kombucha from Brooklyn to prepare our palate, as we were waiting for our drinks. We also got a mocktail for Jodi (Ko-Pilot, made with a non-alcoholic Duche de Longueville sparkling cider, Yuzu, maple and sea salt) and cocktail for me (First World, made with Mezcal, Falernum that is a Caribbean syrup, vermouth, verjus and green chartreuse, that is what made me decide to go with this cocktail, lemon and fleur de sel that was on the side of the glass). I also had, later in the meal, a nice 2022 Roger Belland Chassagne Montrachet that was a bit of a bet as I did not know what they would serve, but could not resist a pinot noir!
Then started the 8 course menu that was more 10 with the add-ons…Here is what we had with, on the left, the vegetarian dishes for Jodi:
Amuse bouche:
Beets and lovage:
Hiramasa or yellow tail and elderflower:
Beluga lentils eggs on eggs on eggs:
Asparagus, green tomatoes, avocado ice cream and burrata:
Endive with grilled sugar snap peas and morel mushroom broth:
Caviar eggs on eggs on eggs:
Chilled lobster, green tomato, avocado ice cream and burrata:
Sea bass with grilled English peas and mushroom broth:
Agnolotti with artichoke, sorrel and black truffle from Australia, a treat from the Chef:
Grilled Summer squash with poached cherries and chanterelles:
Confit eggplant with squash blossom and saffron:
Dry aged duck with poached cherries and summer squash:
American Wagyu beef with creamy chanterelles and parmesan:
Frozen Almond with cucumber and passion fruit to clean our palate:
Raspberry and pistachio ice cream compliment of the Chef:
Dark Chocolate tart with blueberries and sunflower:
Cheesecake ice cream, strawberries, brown sugar:
Last, they brought us some banana toffee that were the last thing I could eat after such meal. Everything was delicious, my favorite being the duck that was perfectly cooked, the skin being crispy and deliciously fatty, as well as the pasta that surprised me, not because of the truffle, but because, when I heard “artichoke”, I was not sure what to expect. Being in the kitchen you can of course expect a top notch service, but it was even better: this was true hospitality, everyone making us feel comfortable, in a setting that was not stuffy at all. I definitely recommend it if you can afford it.
Enjoy (I did)!
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The Kitchen Table at The Modern - 9 W 53rd St, New York, NY 10019