Sparks Steakhouse is one of these places that are part of the history of New York, like Keens, Peter Luger or the Old Homestead. Not that it is that old, but it is a major player in the New York food scene, to the point that when it announced in 2017 that it would close its doors because it could not reach an agreement with its landlord, everyone was stunned. Fortunately, they were able to renew their lease and continue operating. Besides for its steaks, Sparks is also known because of the infamous murder in 1985, right in front of the restaurant, of Paul Castellano, the head of the Gambino family that was ordered by John Gotti.
So, I was excited to finally go there, Sparks Steakhouse being on my list forever. Arriving there, you get transported a bit to the past, noticing the tuxedo of the Maître D’ or the heavy decor that old steakhouses used to have: thick carpet, dark setting, masculine feel and tons of paintings along the walls.
Food wise, they are proud to say that, at least for steaks, they did not change their menu for the past 60 years they have been in operation. I admit that I was a bit lost with their menu that just said for instance “steak fromage” or “sliced steak with…”. So they explained that their most popular and recommended cut is their sirloin and then the filet mignon. You can they choose to have it with cheese (the “au fromage” I mentioned before) or with sautéed onions and peppers. They do not have any ribeye or porterhouse and asking feels like you are insulting them (but with an humorous way). They also have an impressive veal chop and lamb. The lamb was pretty good, drenched, nicely fatty, and perfectly cooked medium. The sirloin was good too, but more medium than medium-rare. It was tender and juicy, with a nice crust on the outside.
As far as sides, they have classics, and their hash browns are a must have: crunchy with a delicious burnt crust. Another good option is the sautéed mushrooms.
Appetizers seem also to be of the past and pricey for what it is. For example, you get 4 baked clams and 2 shrimp scampi for $27.95! It would be a large shrimp gambas, and a giant clam, I would understand, but no, this was small and not worth the price. The crab meat and scallops was also a let down but better as there was lots of jumbo crab meat, but the Bay scallops were simply bland. Disappointing.
I should mention their extensive wine list that is quite impressive. However, I only had a cocktail, a Paper Plane, that was made with bourbon, aperol and amaro.
Last is desserts. The fact that they have classic is in a way what you would want in a steakhouse and their pecan pie a la mode is superb. However, they are not making it there. They apparently only make the whipped cream. So, why not putting much more on the plate! There was just a little bit there, gone after less than two bites.
So, overall, I was not so impressed by Sparks Steakhouse. The meat was good but not at the level of a Peter Luger or Gallagher's, or even Porterhouse that has become my favorite. I guess going there would be more because it is an institution in the city than for its menu.
Enjoy (I still did)!
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Sparks Steakhouse- 210 E 46th St, New York, NY 10017